Bp3d - Revision history

Bpopp: /* Extruder Thermistor on SainSmart 2-in-1 */

2016-10-01T19:54:51Z

Extruder Thermistor on SainSmart 2-in-1

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:54, 1 October 2016
Line 193:		Line 193:
	== Extruder Thermistor on SainSmart 2-in-1 ==		== Extruder Thermistor on SainSmart 2-in-1 ==

	While changing out my extruder, somehow I fried the thermistor pin for T0. It showed a constant 164 degrees even without anything plugged in. Fortunately I'm only using one extruder so I was able to swap the pins for T0 and T1. This allows me to plug my exturder's thermisor into T1. I had some trouble figuring out how to do this in newer versions of Marlin, but in RC3, I was able to make it work by modifying pins_RAMPS_13.h to read:		While changing out my extruder, somehow I fried the thermistor pin for T0. It showed a constant 164 degrees even without anything plugged in. Fortunately I'm only using one extruder so I was able to swap the pins for T0 and T2 (T1 is the bed). This allows me to plug my exturder's thermisor into T2. I had some trouble figuring out how to do this in newer versions of Marlin, but in RC3, I was able to make it work by modifying pins_RAMPS_13.h to read:

	<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING		<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING

Bpopp: /* Extruder Thermistor on SainSmart 2-in-1 */

2016-10-01T19:54:11Z

Extruder Thermistor on SainSmart 2-in-1

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:54, 1 October 2016
Line 196:		Line 196:

	<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING		<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING
	#define TEMP_1_PIN 13 ~~// ANALOG NUMBERING~~		#define TEMP_1_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING</pre>
	~~#define TEMP_2_PIN -1~~ // ANALOG NUMBERING</pre>

	instead of		instead of

	<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING		<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING
	#define TEMP_1_PIN 15 ~~// ANALOG NUMBERING~~		#define TEMP_1_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING</pre>
	~~#define TEMP_2_PIN -1~~ // ANALOG NUMBERING</pre>

Bpopp: /* Setup */

2016-10-01T19:27:16Z

Setup

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:27, 1 October 2016
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	M84 ; disable motors		M84 ; disable motors
	</pre>		</pre>

			== Extruder Thermistor on SainSmart 2-in-1 ==

			While changing out my extruder, somehow I fried the thermistor pin for T0. It showed a constant 164 degrees even without anything plugged in. Fortunately I'm only using one extruder so I was able to swap the pins for T0 and T1. This allows me to plug my exturder's thermisor into T1. I had some trouble figuring out how to do this in newer versions of Marlin, but in RC3, I was able to make it work by modifying pins_RAMPS_13.h to read:

			<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING
			#define TEMP_1_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING
			#define TEMP_2_PIN -1 // ANALOG NUMBERING</pre>

			instead of

			<pre>#define TEMP_0_PIN 13 // ANALOG NUMBERING
			#define TEMP_1_PIN 15 // ANALOG NUMBERING
			#define TEMP_2_PIN -1 // ANALOG NUMBERING</pre>

Bpopp at 00:43, 7 July 2016

2016-07-07T00:43:37Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:43, 7 July 2016
Line 73:		Line 73:
	Bought my buddy Dave a roll of filament to print my parts for me.		Bought my buddy Dave a roll of filament to print my parts for me.

	= ~~Setup~~ =		= Design=

	== Controller ==		== Controller ==

Bpopp at 00:43, 7 July 2016

2016-07-07T00:43:12Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:43, 7 July 2016
Line 173:		Line 173:

	[[File:Voron rebuild-ultimaker2.jpg]]		[[File:Voron rebuild-ultimaker2.jpg]]



			= Setup =

	== Simplify3D Configuration ==		== Simplify3D Configuration ==

Bpopp at 00:40, 7 July 2016

2016-07-07T00:40:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:40, 7 July 2016
Line 173:		Line 173:

	[[File:Voron rebuild-ultimaker2.jpg]]		[[File:Voron rebuild-ultimaker2.jpg]]

			== Simplify3D Configuration ==

			<pre>
			M106 S0 ; Turn Fan Off
			M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
			M140 S0 ; turn off bed
			G90 ; change to relative
			G1 Z50 F3000 ; raise nozzle 20mm
			G91 ; switch back to absolute mode
			G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
			M84 ; disable motors
			</pre>

Bpopp: /* Voron/Ultimaker/T-Bot Hybrid */

2016-05-27T03:24:18Z

Voron/Ultimaker/T-Bot Hybrid

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:24, 27 May 2016
Line 171:		Line 171:

	This design takes a little bit from everything. I'm using the aluminum frame/12mm linear rod design of the ultimaker, some Z-axis brackets from T-bot, and the CoreXY design from Voron. I actually like this design a lot. It's fully enclosable and combines the very popular ultimaker design with a solid corexy design. My one concern is that the Y rails are connected to the motor mount. It seems like this could potentially introduce vibration. It's also probably on the expensive side since it uses the expensive Ultimaker parts.		This design takes a little bit from everything. I'm using the aluminum frame/12mm linear rod design of the ultimaker, some Z-axis brackets from T-bot, and the CoreXY design from Voron. I actually like this design a lot. It's fully enclosable and combines the very popular ultimaker design with a solid corexy design. My one concern is that the Y rails are connected to the motor mount. It seems like this could potentially introduce vibration. It's also probably on the expensive side since it uses the expensive Ultimaker parts.

			[[File:Voron rebuild-ultimaker2.jpg]]

Bpopp: /* Or not.. */

2016-05-26T23:03:00Z

Or not..

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:03, 26 May 2016
Line 167:		Line 167:

	Well, Dave sh*t all over my T-bot Z-axis implementation. He says he doesn't think the 3d printed parts will hold up well to heat. I think he just didn't want to print them (understandably), but he does make some good points. The T-bot page is mostly in german, and there aren't a lot of makes, so it's probably best not to dump a lot of time and money into it. Instead, I think I'm going to just go with an Ultimaker bed. It's a little more expensive, but there's definitely more people doing it, it will squeeze in fairly easily, and it seems like a good design. I found [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3624-aluminium-heated-bed-questions this nice thread] discussing aluminum vs. glass and HPB (heated print bed) implementations.		Well, Dave sh*t all over my T-bot Z-axis implementation. He says he doesn't think the 3d printed parts will hold up well to heat. I think he just didn't want to print them (understandably), but he does make some good points. The T-bot page is mostly in german, and there aren't a lot of makes, so it's probably best not to dump a lot of time and money into it. Instead, I think I'm going to just go with an Ultimaker bed. It's a little more expensive, but there's definitely more people doing it, it will squeeze in fairly easily, and it seems like a good design. I found [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3624-aluminium-heated-bed-questions this nice thread] discussing aluminum vs. glass and HPB (heated print bed) implementations.

			=== Voron/Ultimaker/T-Bot Hybrid ===

			This design takes a little bit from everything. I'm using the aluminum frame/12mm linear rod design of the ultimaker, some Z-axis brackets from T-bot, and the CoreXY design from Voron. I actually like this design a lot. It's fully enclosable and combines the very popular ultimaker design with a solid corexy design. My one concern is that the Y rails are connected to the motor mount. It seems like this could potentially introduce vibration. It's also probably on the expensive side since it uses the expensive Ultimaker parts.

Bpopp: /* Or not.. */

2016-05-23T20:12:57Z

Or not..

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:12, 23 May 2016
Line 166:		Line 166:
	=== Or not.. ===		=== Or not.. ===

	Well, Dave sh*t all over my T-bot Z-axis implementation. He says he doesn't think the 3d printed parts will hold up well to heat. I think he just didn't want to print them, but ~~what~~ he ~~says makes sense~~. The T-bot page is mostly in german, and there aren't a lot of makes, so it's probably best not to dump a lot of time and money into it. Instead, I think I'm going to just go with an Ultimaker bed. It's a little more expensive, but there's definitely more people doing it, it will squeeze in fairly easily, and it seems like a good design. I found [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3624-aluminium-heated-bed-questions this nice thread] discussing aluminum vs. glass and HPB (heated print bed) implementations.		Well, Dave sh*t all over my T-bot Z-axis implementation. He says he doesn't think the 3d printed parts will hold up well to heat. I think he just didn't want to print them (understandably), but he does make some good points. The T-bot page is mostly in german, and there aren't a lot of makes, so it's probably best not to dump a lot of time and money into it. Instead, I think I'm going to just go with an Ultimaker bed. It's a little more expensive, but there's definitely more people doing it, it will squeeze in fairly easily, and it seems like a good design. I found [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3624-aluminium-heated-bed-questions this nice thread] discussing aluminum vs. glass and HPB (heated print bed) implementations.

Bpopp: /* Or not.. */

2016-05-23T20:11:48Z

Or not..

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:11, 23 May 2016
Line 166:		Line 166:
	=== Or not.. ===		=== Or not.. ===

	Well, Dave sh*t all over my T-bot implementation. He says he doesn't think the 3d printed parts will hold up well to heat. I think he just didn't want to print them, but what he says makes sense. The T-bot page is mostly in german, and there aren't a lot of makes, so it's probably best not to dump a lot of time and money into it. Instead, I think I'm going to just go with an Ultimaker bed. It's a little more expensive, but there's definitely more people doing it, it will squeeze in fairly easily, and it seems like a good design. I found [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3624-aluminium-heated-bed-questions this nice thread] discussing aluminum vs. glass and HPB (heated print bed) implementations.		Well, Dave sh*t all over my T-bot Z-axis implementation. He says he doesn't think the 3d printed parts will hold up well to heat. I think he just didn't want to print them, but what he says makes sense. The T-bot page is mostly in german, and there aren't a lot of makes, so it's probably best not to dump a lot of time and money into it. Instead, I think I'm going to just go with an Ultimaker bed. It's a little more expensive, but there's definitely more people doing it, it will squeeze in fairly easily, and it seems like a good design. I found [https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3624-aluminium-heated-bed-questions this nice thread] discussing aluminum vs. glass and HPB (heated print bed) implementations.